Hi there,
yesterday was perhaps one of the most beautiful days I ever lived here on Maui. I woke up at 7am with the usual message of Gary: K - NOW! (Kanaha NOW). When I arrived at the beach around 7:30am there were already plenty of people .. with both the SUP and short board.From the beach, the waves did not seem so big and maybe this was one of the reasons that convinced me to go out ...
but as I left and I approached the line of the break point, I realized that maybe I was completely wrong in judging the sizes of the waves. As soon as I reached the break point I was able to ride a nice wave. It was about head high; I was so happy to catch the right wave...WOW...After I returned to the break point I saw Gary and he told me that we should go somewhere else. We paddled down in front of Kite Beach where all the other guys with the SUP and a perfect right wave were!
I stayed there until 9.30 am when all of the sudden a set much bigger appeared on the horizon (the forecast was increasing waves during the morning). I decided to paddle out and hope it would not be too big. Gary got the first and I got the second one. I am pretty sure that it was logo high. After a few turns in the wave, the white water completely covered me with the power of the wave..
I was tumbled in the wave for several seconds and the leash of the board continued to pull on my leg. It was impossible to get back to the surface. I spent 2-3 minutes of hell; After a short breath I was swallowing more water and felt like this would never end.
After the set had passed I thought it was maybe better to return to the beach and hang the SUP on the nail.
But, wait a minute, instead I returned to the break point and I continued to take wave after wave until it was already 10.20am . I was exhausted when I returned to the beach. I took a shower, had some breakfast, went home and slept all afternoon (beside watching a football game).
Aloha,yesterday was perhaps one of the most beautiful days I ever lived here on Maui. I woke up at 7am with the usual message of Gary: K - NOW! (Kanaha NOW). When I arrived at the beach around 7:30am there were already plenty of people .. with both the SUP and short board.From the beach, the waves did not seem so big and maybe this was one of the reasons that convinced me to go out ...
but as I left and I approached the line of the break point, I realized that maybe I was completely wrong in judging the sizes of the waves. As soon as I reached the break point I was able to ride a nice wave. It was about head high; I was so happy to catch the right wave...WOW...After I returned to the break point I saw Gary and he told me that we should go somewhere else. We paddled down in front of Kite Beach where all the other guys with the SUP and a perfect right wave were!
I stayed there until 9.30 am when all of the sudden a set much bigger appeared on the horizon (the forecast was increasing waves during the morning). I decided to paddle out and hope it would not be too big. Gary got the first and I got the second one. I am pretty sure that it was logo high. After a few turns in the wave, the white water completely covered me with the power of the wave..
I was tumbled in the wave for several seconds and the leash of the board continued to pull on my leg. It was impossible to get back to the surface. I spent 2-3 minutes of hell; After a short breath I was swallowing more water and felt like this would never end.
After the set had passed I thought it was maybe better to return to the beach and hang the SUP on the nail.
But, wait a minute, instead I returned to the break point and I continued to take wave after wave until it was already 10.20am . I was exhausted when I returned to the beach. I took a shower, had some breakfast, went home and slept all afternoon (beside watching a football game).
Andrea
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